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THE TAKIN TRAIL

A takin is an enigmatic creature. It has the elongated face of a cow, the arched nose of a mountain goat, the curly and diminutive horn of an antelope, and the bulk of a wild buffalo. Yet some takin have an exquisite golden plumage and the gregarious creatures live at heights that few others reach in high mountain meadows. It makes a rare sight, and this tour we literally follow the takin’s own trail from the low valleys (where they over-winter) to the mountaintop at around 3,400 metres high. At the summit we find gregarious herds wandering in the clouds like mythical beasts. We also see much else in our journey: our treks take us to the lair of other celebrated animals such as pandas, leopards, golden pheasants, blue sheep, crested kingfishers, golden monkeys, and black bears. We also get to stay with farmers in their remote farmhouse, and all throughout our tour we travel in some of the most spectacular mountains in the world.

We will visit the following places and see the following things:

Qinchuan peasants

Our journey takes us up the Tangjia river in Qinchuan, where the river has cut a wide and deep valley, and its waters have nurtured farming settlements for thousands of years. The farmer’s villages nestle in lush mountains along the river, and the farmers live in evocative traditional Chinese houses that are constructed of bricks, traditional tiled roofs, and wooden frontages – geometric windows and doors, columns framing the porches, and traditional Chinese sculpturing or recitations. Bundles of dried corn is festooned and hung out in outbuildings or porches; the dry corn is fed to the sows (female pigs) and chicken that are kept in people’s farmhouses. We will have some time to explore these rural villages, visiting some households and seeing the farmers at work – the farmers here grow maize, rice, and also cultivate fruit trees. It’s a rural scene that conjures the imagery of old China and Oriental exoticness – even the largest town in the region, home to 30000 people, is a small pleasant cluster of buildings set along the river, with twisty streets lined up with shophouses, and a colourful market of fresh produce. 

Tangjia river

We continue travelling upstream along the Tangjia river all the way to the river’s source: the source of the river is at a high slope that is hemmed in by ridges. The river near the source flows through a hidden and steep gorge where nature is among the richest in the world for its number of species. Blue sheep are found in the huge boulders that loom above the gorge, and the river tumbles through high mountains in a series of dramatic waterfalls. Far above, grasslands have formed on the ridges, which are almost 4,000 metres high (hence beyond the tree-line), and create a rare habitat – it’s unusual to have grasslands at a point so far east. Here we do a three-day trek, literally following the trail of the takins: we use the same path that the takins have used since time immemorial in their annual migration, when the animals move from the lower valleys in the winter to the highest ridges in spring. At the beginning of the trail, the terrain consists of mixed deciduous forests with an understorey of arrow bamboo – the food of resident giant pandas. We might be able to spot a panda in the wild is we’re lucky (the problem with seeing pandas is that the bamboo forests where they live is very dense). Eventually, the forest becomes alpine higher up at around the 3000-metre-high research station where we will lodge on the shoulder of the mountain. The next day we conquer the peak – at around 3,400 metres high – and at the grasslands at the peak we encounter the surreal sight of herds of takins browsing the grass and also lots of monal pheasants – another endemic species – calling out in coarse utterings on top of the mountain. 

Peasant farmhouses in Micang

The country farmhouses in Micang are different than those on the Tangjia river – in Micang, the houses are entirely build of wood and designed around frontal courtyards. The terrain is also different, with mountains that are characterised by curious flat-top summits and deep gorges, making endlessly dramatic contrasts. The mountains are also covered in dense forest, and a scattering of farmhouses are found in the lower valleys, among a tapestry of fields where the farmers grow staple crops such as wheat, corn and other crops. We lodge with one family in their large farmhouse, and spend an entire day getting acquainted with life on the farm: joining the farmers in the fields, gathering the day’s vegetables (the farmers grow mixed vegetables for household use), then preparing food in large woks set on hearths of wood-fire. The fields among the forest attract many rural birds such as thrushes and starlings and magpies, and we will soak up the tranquility and bountifulness of the rural lifestyle during our stint on the farm. 

Micang nature reserve 

Further upslope in Micang is a nature reserve that encompasses an area of steep mountains, untouched forests, sheer cliffs, and underground rivers. The illustrious inhabitants are the golden pheasants, whose plumage is a bright red on the head and golden on the wings. We will stay in a mountain lodge, and then do various walks that radiate from the lodge. On the standard default tour we will do two separate day-treks, but this can be changed to a multi-day overnight-camp trek if preferred by private groups (we will discuss these options if you contact us for a private tour of the region). We will walk up the slope of one of the flat-topped mountains – where we will encounter many golden pheasants – and later do some caving (we walk through a tunnel gouged by water for 500 metres), and then follow the path as it descends into a dramatic gorge where the river scenically cuts through tunnels before flowing into a massive cave and going underground.  

Birdwatching

The illustrious birds that we will see include plenty of monal pheasants (an endemic species that live on the crests of mountains) and golden pheasants. Aside from this, we will spend a day of dedicated birdwatching in a hike along the Tangjia river. The river teems with birds, and notable species include many exquisite crested kingfishers diving into the river for fishes, lots of dippers that swim underwater, passerines such as redstarts and warblers and tits, migratory ducks that nest along the banks of the river, a variety of doves and thrushes, other colourful birds such as the tree woodpecker and the little owl and, if we’re lucky, we might also see the endemic and rare Sichuan hill partridge. The tour leader on this tour is an experienced trekker, bird watcher, and wildlife expert.

Cypress forest & ancient garrison tower

Our journey takes place in northeast Sichuan along the border with Shaanxi province. There is a famous valley in the area that was the civilization route from Shaanxi – where the Han ethnic group emerged thousands of years ago – to Chengdu, the capital of Sichuan. It was the route used by passing trade, armies, and travellers. The valley is famous for its cypress trees, which are hundreds of years old and loom five storeys up into the air, and there is also some heavyweight historical monuments: an old Buddhist temple, a garrison tower where soldiers were stationed to protect the route, and an old village. During our drive back to Chengdu, we will take an extra night by driving slowly down this route – seeing all the sights – and hence breaking down and enjoying the long journey to Chengdu. 

STOP PRESS: We also do a second trekking-focused version of this tour. It’s hardier and longer, involving three-day ascent of the highest mountain near the Tangjia river’s source, and another set of three or four days trekking in Micang. Both treks are on rarely used paths. Write to us for further details if interested in these more far-out treks.

Start & Finish: Chengdu

Duration: 10 days

Trekking: 5 days trekking

Difficulty Level: Treks are relatively easy; longest daily hike is 6 hours. Travellers only need to carry personal belongings such as camera during treks. No special fitness is required. 

Prices: Highest-end prices start at RMB14,500 (€1,550 or US$2,100) total per person for two travellers; RMB13,000 each for three travellers, RMB9,990 for four participants, and then continues to fall commensurably thereafter depending on the size of the group. The price is all-inclusive; the only things that aren’t covered are incidental or superfluous personal expenses.

Crew & Vehicle: Vehicles range from a jeep (SUV) or seven-seat aircon van for a group of up to 4 travellers, then 10-seater or 17-seater mini-bus for larger groups. The crew consists of professional driver, tour leader and guide, as well as local guides and porters where needed.

Accommodation: Mid-range hotels in Tangjiahe and other towns, research station lodge on two nights, farm-stay on one night, comfy wooden mountain lodge at Micang reserve

Dynamic Prices & Flexible Arrangements: Since we mostly cater for private groups, the itinerary here is a default or suggested itinerary that we usually alter depending on the clients’ budget and preferences. The prices quoted above are for a full complement of crew and mid-range hotels. You can change these arrangements to something that suits you better – find out more about ways with customised arrangements at Dynamic Pricing.  

Detailed Info: For any questions or more details about this tour, please write to us.

Terms & Conditions: For the general terms and conditions that govern our tours and operation, and Frequently Asked Questions, please go to Nitty Gritty (FAQs)

Travel Independently: Would you prefer to travel in a more independent spirit to the places where we work, which are mostly locations beyond the main tourist circuits? We can help you arrange the logistics so that you can focus on enjoying the trip instead of using up your stamina in frustratingly trying to solve logistical tie-ups. Bear in mind that it may be impossible or very hard to find public transport to destinations where we operate, and it’s equally hard trying to find local guides and accommodation unless you speak the language and have local contacts. We can take away the hassles by fixing all these logistics, but you can still travel at your pace and unattached from general guide. Find out more at Travel Independently.