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HORNBILL TRAILS

In a remote chain of mountains in the centre of Borneo, the richness of the forest can be measured in the cacophony of calls or sounds – the dawn chorus that is among the most raucous we have experienced anywhere. Every morning, calls and whoops and shrills and trills emanate from the forest. It’s a forest that holds some of the largest extant tracts of primeval rainforest in Southeast Asia. And the larger mountainous setting, an area called the Kelabit Highlands, is also home to the longhouse-dwelling Kelabit people, as well as the Penan, the forest nomads who still get virtually all their food in the forest – these jungle hunters and gatherers hunt with blowpipe and spear. The only way in and out of the Kelabit Highlands is on Twin Otter planes that make the run to the nearest city and back twice daily. Planes land in the main settlement of Bario, and other villages scattered in the Kelabit Highlands are then connected to Bario via a network of forest tracks – trails that offer different combination and length of treks. The isolation is a blessing for visitors: the villages are tranquil, the way of life is somnolent, the cuisine largely consists of wild and wonderful forest food, and the trekking is among the best to be had anywhere. Add to this excellent weather – which is mild all year round – and the chance to experience the culture and way of life of longhouse-living, and you have all the ingredients of an unforgettable eco adventure. 

Outline descriptions of attractions and activities in the central Borneo:

Trekking and wildlife

The forest paths that connect a scatter of around two dozen villages on both sides of the border (in Malaysia’s Sarawak and Indonesia’s Kalimantan) serve as ready-made as trekking trails. These paths weave through a variety of habitats, ranging from the so-called keranga (which is marshy forest that is rich in insect-eating plants and birdlife) to the mountains forests that thrive on steep slopes. Many of the villages are roughly within a day’s walk of each other, and that way trekkers are able to eat and lodge with local people – either staying in longhouses or private dwellings. In cases where villages are further apart than a day’s walk, there are shelters in the forest established by the local inhabitants – basic shelters where trekkers can cook in the firepit and set up the tent (or a hammock) under a simple roof. All the trails are like natural and cultural pathways – natural because they weave through virgin jungle that teems with wildlife and cultural because they connect villages and habitations and even different tribes. The village closest to the main settlement Bario – hence the shortest hike – is 4 hours of walking, and the longest is a loop trek of 7 days that spans both sides of the border. Treks that are longer than one day are best because they penetrate old and untouched forest that is among the richest in the world. 

Penan hunter gatherers

One of the last remnants of jungle hunter-gatherers live in the Kelabit Highlands, and still hunt and gather virtually all their food in the forest. They live in bamboo huts, typically in the outskirts of villages (they also have one settlement called Pa’tik), and then they forage in the forest to hunt and scavenge for many of their other material needs. The prey – the hunters target a variety of birds and other animals, such as monkeys and boars and squirrels and deer – is killed by poison-dipped blow-dart or spear. The Penan also have an impressive knowledge of the forest, and virtually everything in the forest has a purpose, whether utilitarian, abstractive, or mystical. You can commune with the Penan during your trip with us, choosing a level of involvement that suits you – you can spend just an afternoon at a Penan encampment, or go hunting and gathering with a Penan in the forest, or even do a four-day round-trip from the main settlement of Bario to Pa’Tik, the Penan settlement. 

Longhouse culture

Longhouses are long rectangular structures built of wood, and in the past they constituted entire villages. The longhouse is divided into two lengthwise sections: on one side there is the communal kitchen and on the other side each family has its private sleeping quarters. The ethos of the longhouse is encapsulated in the communal kitchen: in the evenings, when the families all start fires for cooking, the inhabitants mingle in a spirit of camaraderie and community, sharing yarns or food or drink. It’s an intimate atmosphere that highlights the egalitarian culture of longhouses. More exoticness can also be seen in some of the traditional body markings of the older inhabitants – the heavy coils of earrings dangling from elongated earlobes, the geometric tattoos covering much of the skin, and the colourful traditional skullcaps and costumes. If you travel with us, we can set you up to stay in the oldest longhouse in the Kelabit Highlands, something that would ensure that you immerse yourself fully in Kelabit culture. 

Hospitability and forest food

The Kelabits are legendary for their hospitality – typically, when you turn up at a village, the village chief and other folks approach you to shake your hand – but more memorable is the Kelabit cuisine. The cuisine is largely constituted of forest food – the Kelabits buy a lot of the wild food from the Penan, the jungle hunter-gatherers. Common foodstuffs are wild boar, barking deer, wild fishes, a variety of mushrooms, an array of ferns, wild ginger, the hearts of sago palm, and other vegetables. Most are cooked in curries or stir-fries, and served with the excellent Bario rice and the sweetest variety of pineapple you will ever taste.

Retreat & reveries

Even if you are not interested in doing much trekking, Bario can alternatively be an idea place for a retreat or farm-stay. We can set you up in a comfy bungalow with attached bathroom and cooking facilities at the edge of the forest; it’s a location so natural and quiet that you will forget the passage of time. Or you can lodge in the longhouse and immerse yourself into the culture and amiable bustle of life in the longhouse. You can then keep yourself engaged by doing light activities such as short walks, fishing, and birdwatching; or you can get physically active by pottering or working on a vegetable farm. Or you can simply visit to do nothing and simply wallow in uninterrupted reveries. The possibilities are many, if you use your imagination. Perhaps you may seek some quiet time off, and the atmosphere is certainly conducive: the nature around you will inspire you in myriad ways, there are no cars or other interruptions, and the weather is perfect and constant all year round – rising to around 25 degrees Celsius during the day and dipping down to around 19 degrees at night (when you need a light cover). 

Start & Finish: We can advice you on how to get to Bario from any gateway city in Malaysia.

Recommended duration: 14 days

Recommended Trekking: 5 days

Trekking Difficulty Level: Low to Moderate. Read explainer…

Price Range: Based on duration of 14 days and doing a five-day trek, full-board land-only prices would be around €1200 (US$1600) per person for a minimum of two travellers.

Accommodation: Variety of home-stays, and camping on some nights during the treks.

Farm Retreat: Another possibility is to stay in a bungalow in the grounds of a farm at the edge of the forest – this can be a whole package, or you simply rent the bungalow and do your own thing.